I tried brewers yeast and garlic, but it did not keep fleas away from our furry guardians. Late 1995, we started feeding a completely raw diet, NO kibble. We moved out to the toolies on acreage with lots of brush and wildlife. Spring and summer came and went and we had NO fleas. In fact, I noted that my canine that used to scratch the base of his tail no longer did so! I realized, he was scratching the base of his tail because that's where we put the Frontline or Advantage on him and it was too toxic for him! :o(

Fleas prey on unhealthy animals, just as wolves and other predators prey on the weakest or sick animals. Keeping our companions optimally healthy, naturally, keeps their immune systems strong which makes them unattractive to parasites such as fleas.

We go through over 700 lbs. of raw meat/bone per month to feed our canines and felines. Living off-grid, it is difficult to store enough raw food for the canines and our outdoor country cats. So, since the cats free range on the gophers that destroy my trees and gardens, mice, rats, and small rattlesnakes, I feed them *cringe* kibble once/day. During the summer months, when yellow jackets are out, it's impossible to feed the cats raw, as the yellow jackets would eat the cats, as they are attracted to raw meat. I feed the cats raw food at night, when the yellow jackets are sleeping, but since they are fed twice/day, it's "easiest" for me to feed kibble in the morning. The adult canines only eat once/day, which is after dark in the summer time.

Each spring, 6 or 7 out of our 17 outdoor country cats and feral rescues will get fleas and bring them up under the house where they propagate. I have noted the ones that DO get fleas are the least active ones. Our best hunting cats, who are known to travel 1/4 mile down our stream road (we have NO neighbors) NEVER get fleas.

Mind you, our great Pyrenees livestock guardian dog roams the acreage with the livestock and never gets fleas, nor do the other canines.

I have found the quickest, easiest way to deal with fleas (if you can't feed a raw diet), is to spray beneficial (parasitic) nematodes into the lawn, gardens, and outdoor areas that are usually kept moist. At the same time, sprinkle Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) on the pet(s) who has adult fleas. Lightly, but thoroughly, get the DE throughout their fur. It will kill adult fleas within 24-72 hours of the flea(s) coming in contact with the DE. Make sure to use Food Grade DE, not the pool filter grade which is heat and chemically treated and is TOXIC if ingested.

Food Grade DE can also be lightly sprinkled in carpets and dry areas of the yard, pet bedding, etc. The DE will kill the adult fleas that come in contact with it and the beneficial/parasitic nematodes will parasitize the flea larvae.

To make flea treatment successful, it is imperative that everything is treated all at the same time, the dog, cat, or other pet; the yard; the bedding; the household, if the animal is an indoor pet. If you are diligent in treatment with the DE and with the beneficial nematodes in the yard or acreage, you can expect a flea infestation to be eliminated within 3 weeks. NOTE: Beneficial/parasitic nematodes parasitize flea larvae, fly larvae, termites, grubs, and a huge array of soil dwelling pests, BUT once their food supply is gone, they die and therefore may need reapplication in the warmer months - possibly twice during the flea season.

The reason everything must be treated at once is because ONLY 5 to 15% of the flea infestation that you see are the adult fleas. The remaining 85 to 95% of your flea infestation are the flea larvae that have not yet hatched!! :O( So, in order to completely eliminate a flea infestation, everything and every affected pet must be treated at the same time for lasting effectiveness.

Of course, bathing your pet and/or combing any fleas out of your pet's fur is beneficial as well.

When I take in tiny feral kitten rescues, they often have freeways of fleas running around their little tummies. IF I attempted to bathe the kittens, they would likely attempt to kill me, which would create undue stress on both of us and then likely they would never come near a human again, which would make it extremely difficult to get them adopted out! A few years ago, I started confining these tiny feral kittens to one room of the house. I dunked their little bodies into a 5 gallon bucket of food grade diatomaceous earth, put some DE in their litter box as well (helps to keep it dry and odor free, besides giving them some DE on their legs every time they potty). I dust them with DE twice/week and within 2 to 3 weeks, ALL of the fleas are gone and they do not propagate in the house. I do try to comb them once/week or so, just so I can see how many fleas they still have, but combing tiny feral kittens is difficult and their little elbows, armpits, etc. are nearly impossible to get fleas out of with a comb and they generally don't take to kindly to being turned over on their backs by a strange human.

Since they have fleas, I also feed them a teaspoon of DE in their food each day. They always have lots of tapeworm segments on their hind end fur, following the first day of dosing them with DE and continuing for a week or so thereafter. Recommended feeding rates for 4-5 week old kittens is only 1/2 teaspoon, but since they are infested with fleas, I know they will be infested with tapes, so I increase the dose to 1 tsp., sometimes just a bit more to make sure it is effective.

If you travel frequently with your pet and until you get their immune system strong and healthy, we recommend spraying with a natural flea repellent spray that can be sprayed well into their underbelly, armpit, and other areas to prevent the fleas from hopping on them when you are taking them for walks in areas that fleas are abundant, but otherwise, if they just stay home in your house and yard, spraying the yard with parasitic/beneficial nematodes and putting food grade DE on them when they have adult fleas, as well as their bedding, and inside the home (IF fleas are a problem there) will take care of your infestation within 2 to 3 weeks.

The bottom line goal is not just to treat fleas or dis-ease, but to effect a permanent CURE. Holistic methods can do this, whereas traditional man made medicines usually only effect a temporary relief from illness or dis-ease.

Healthy animals rarely succumb to disease, illness, or bad behaviors. When they do, they bounce back quicker than unhealthy animals. They get plenty of exercise, sunshine, love, tlc, natural rearing foods that are biologically appropriate to the specific animal, clean environments, mental exercise in the way of proper, appropriate training, and avoidance of toxins. They have jobs to keep them busy, whether watching the house while we are gone or making sure the couch or cats don't get eaten while we are away. They are part of our family. Often, they are better than a few humans in our immediate family and deserve the BEST possible health care we can give them.

This site is dedicated to all animals and their guardians. Whether you are here to find information and links to research holistic methods or just browsing, please feel free to linger as long as you wish.